Tallinn Christmas Market 2024: A Magical Winter Experience in Estonia

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Discover the charm of the Tallinn Christmas Market in Estonia’s Old Town. Explore festive stalls, savour traditional treats, and immerse yourself in a winter wonderland perfect for families.

After going to Vilnius and Riga earlier on in the year, I was really keen to go to Estonia and I heard the Christmas market there could be a perfect first trip.

The Tallinn Christmas Market, held in the city’s medieval Town Hall Square, is a popular winter event featuring local crafts, seasonal food, and festive lights. Set against the backdrop of historic buildings and a large Christmas tree, it offers a cosy, low-key Christmas experience in the heart of the Old Town. I took my daughter, Megan, at the end of November for a quick two-night break, and while we didn’t get any snow (sadly!), we still completely fell in love with Tallinn. The market’s relaxed, storybook atmosphere felt magical without being overwhelming—something she’s already asking to do again next year. It’s the kind of trip that feels like the start of a lovely new Christmas tradition. Below is an overview and some general thoughts, in case you’re planning your own trip to the Baltics for a festive getaway.

Where to stay

We stayed inside the walls of the old town and I was really pleased we did. I found this really cute, warm, and cosy apartment on Booking.com that turned out to be perfect for the two of us. It had everything we needed, with a welcoming vibe that made it feel like a little home away from home. The best part? It was just a three-minute walk from the Christmas market, which made it super easy to pop in and out throughout the day. Being right in the heart of the Old Town, the location couldn’t have been better—cobbled streets, historic buildings, and that festive charm around every corner.

What to expect

If you’re looking for a huge, bustling Christmas market packed with crowds and nonstop action, Tallinn might not tick all the boxes—but that’s exactly why we loved it. The market has a smaller, more intimate feel, with just the right amount of festive charm. Maybe it was because we visited earlier in the season, but the atmosphere was calm and relaxed—we could browse the stalls, grab a bite to eat, and soak up the twinkling lights without ever feeling rushed or overwhelmed. It’s definitely a market you can see in one evening, so if you’re after a longer trip, consider pairing it with a few days in Helsinki or Riga—both are just a ferry or short flight away. That said, we did notice some of the stalls changed over the couple of days we were there, which kept things fresh and made it worth going back for another wander. Also, it just feels like a nice place to hang out and grab a mulled wine!

Tips for Visiting with Family

Wander around the town

Beyond the magic of the Christmas market, Tallinn itself is a dream to wander through. Even though we caught it on a gray, drizzly day, the charm of the old town still shone through—and I can only imagine how magical it would be under a fresh blanket of snow or with a bit of winter sun lighting up the rooftops. Take some time to stroll along the ancient city walls and lose yourself in the winding cobblestone streets. There’s a real fairy-tale feel here, with medieval towers poking up between colorful buildings, ivy-covered archways, and tucked-away courtyards that make you feel like you’ve stepped into another era. One of the best things you can do is just wander with no agenda—chances are, you’ll stumble upon a cozy little café, a quirky boutique, or a breathtaking view from one of the city’s many lookout points.

Take day trip to Helsinki

Megan is the kind of person who’s always on the go so even though we were only in Tallinn for a couple of days, she was determined to make the most of it. We found ferry tickets to Helsinki online here and before we knew it, we were sailing across the Baltic. The tram from the ferry terminal in Helsinki took us straight into the heart of the city, which made things super easy. The Christmas market there wasn’t quite what we hoped for—less festive and a lot more crowded than Tallinn’s—but it still had its moments. We caught some Finnish carols, Megan had a sweet moment meeting Santa, and we both warmed up with hot chocolate and mulled wine.

Vegetarian options

While Tallinn does offer a growing number of vegetarian and vegan-friendly spots, especially within the city itself, the local market scene still leans heavily toward traditional, meat-based fare. Walking through the markets, you’ll find stalls brimming with cured meats, sausages, and hearty stews—delicious, no doubt, but not ideal if you’re plant-based. That said, we did manage to find a couple of cosy restaurants tucked just off the main square that had a more diverse menu.

Other practicalities

We took a Ryanair flight from Stansted, and I decided to splurge just a little on convenience—we booked the Green Multi-Storey parking at the airport. It’s a bit pricier than the long-stay options, but being able to stroll right from the car to the terminal was totally worth it (especially when you’re juggling early flights and a tired child). After landing in Tallinn, we hopped on the number 2 bus to the city centre. Tickets were just €2 each and easy to grab from the machine at the bus stop (cards accepted). The ride only took about 15 minutes, and then just a five minute walk to our accommodation. We also got the bus back to the airport at the end of our stay

All in all this was a perfect little break with enough to do for a couple of days but it was by no means overwhelming, which sometimes I think Christmas markets can be. Now for planning the next one…

Unpaid Parental Leave

How We’re Using Unpaid Parental Leave in the UK to Travel (again) as a Family

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Planning a family trip using unpaid parental leave? Here’s how we’re doing it—again—after 5 months in Asia, with tips on applying and your rights in the UK.


If you’re a working parent in the UK, chances are you’ve heard of maternity and paternity leave—but what about unpaid parental leave?

It’s a legal right in the UK that many parents aren’t using—and we’re currently in the process of applying for it ourselves. Why? Because after the success of our five-month adventure in Asia, we’ve decided to do it again—this time taking a family trip using unpaid parental leave as part of our plan.

This post covers everything we’ve learned about how to take unpaid parental leave in the UK, especially if you’re considering using it for extended family travel.


What Is Unpaid Parental Leave in the UK?

Unpaid parental leave gives eligible working parents the right to take time off to care for their child. This could be for anything from settling them into childcare to, like us, taking a longer family trip without quitting your job.

Unlike maternity or paternity leave, this time off is unpaid, but your employment rights are protected while you’re away.


Who’s Eligible for Unpaid Parental Leave?

To qualify, you must:

  • Be an employee (not freelance or self-employed),
  • Have worked for your employer for at least one year,
  • Have parental responsibility for the child (biological, adoptive, or legal).

If you meet these criteria, you’re legally entitled to unpaid parental leave—regardless of what your company’s internal policies say.


How Much Leave Can You Take?

Here’s what UK law allows:

  • Up to 18 weeks unpaid leave per child (before they turn 18),
  • A maximum of 4 weeks per child per year (unless your employer agrees to more),
  • Usually taken in whole weeks, not single days (unless your child is disabled or your employer allows it).

We’re using several weeks next year to extend our family travel plans, without draining our annual leave or risking our jobs.


How to Apply for Unpaid Parental Leave

We’re currently at this stage—submitting our request.

Here’s how it works:

  1. Give your employer at least 21 days’ written notice, stating the exact dates you plan to take off.
  2. Your employer can postpone the leave for up to six months if your absence would disrupt the business.
  3. They must respond in writing within 7 days if they’re postponing it.
  4. They can’t refuse it outright if you’re eligible.

We recommend starting this conversation as early as possible—especially if you’re planning something like long-term travel or a family career break.


What Happens to Your Job While You’re Away?

Even though the leave is unpaid, your job and employment rights are protected. That means:

  • You’re entitled to return to the same job (or a suitable alternative),
  • You continue to accrue annual leave,
  • And you’re protected from unfair treatment or dismissal due to taking the leave.

Why We’re Taking Parental Leave for Travel—Again

In 2024, we spent five incredible months travelling around Asia as a family. It was eye-opening, grounding, and an experience we’ll never forget. After returning, we knew we wanted to do it again—and thanks to unpaid parental leave, we can.

This time, we’re planning a slightly shorter but equally exciting trip next year, combining unpaid parental leave with some saved annual leave and flexible working options. It’s our way of creating space for meaningful family time while keeping our jobs secure.

Read more about our 5-month Asia trip here


Is It Worth It?

Absolutely Yes—if you can plan for the income gap.

Taking unpaid time off isn’t easy, especially during a cost-of-living crisis. But the chance to break routine and reconnect as a family has been worth every bit of planning.

Whether you’re dreaming of slow travel, navigating childcare changes, or just need time to breathe, unpaid parental leave is a powerful tool.


Final Thoughts + Tips

Unpaid parental leave in the UK is underused but full of potential—especially for parents looking to travel, reset, or spend more time with their kids while they’re still little.

If you’re considering it, here are a few tips:

  • Start conversations with your employer early,
  • Budget for the unpaid time off well in advance,
  • Mix it with other types of leave (e.g. annual leave, flexible hours),
  • Don’t be afraid to use the entitlement—you’ve earned it.

Thinking about taking unpaid parental leave for travel?
Drop a comment or message—I’d love to hear your plans, swap notes, or share more about our process.

Full Moon Party – with kids!

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Discover how to enjoy Thailand’s Full Moon Party with children. Tips on family-friendly accommodation, activities, and safety for an unforgettable experience.

Okay, I know what you’re thinking — a Full Moon Party and kids? Not exactly a match made in heaven, right? Trust me, I had the same thought. I’d never made it to one in my younger, wilder days, but it always sat on my bucket list. Fast forward to now: I’ve got three kids, questionable stamina, and zero interest in partying until sunrise. So… maybe doing it with the kids was the dream scenario after all?

Of course, there are definitely a few things to keep in mind to make sure everyone has a great (and safe) time. So here’s the lowdown on how we went about it.

location, location, location

This was hands-down our biggest decision: where to stay. We weren’t after the wild backpacker scene, but we also didn’t want to be so far out that getting back meant a late-night transport mission. Too close, though, and we’d risk the Full Moon chaos spilling right onto our doorstep. Oh, and we didn’t want to blow the budget—but we were willing to pay a little extra to tick all the right boxes.

Let’s be real: we don’t always get it right when we travel, but this time? We nailed it. We ended up staying here—and honestly, it was the best decision we could’ve made (even if it was a bit of a lucky guess from our kitchen in Southampton weeks earlier!). The hotel is right on the Full Moon Party beach, but tucked away at the far end, so we had the perfect balance: just a five-minute stroll along the sand to the party, but far enough to escape the chaos when we needed a break.

They were also impressively prepared. We were given wristbands for re-entry, and there was a staff member stationed at the beach entrance to make sure only hotel guests could come through. It felt safe, organised, and just the right kind of buzz. They had a buffet dinner available on the night of the party, already included in the price, and everyone got a drink. I really can’t recommend it enough if you are looking for the same type of thing.

Go early

This was actually a really important tip for us, and one I’d definitely pass along to others. We knew we wanted to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the energy of the night, but at the same time, we were mindful of not exposing the kids to anything too wild—like people who were completely out of it from drinking or drugs. So we planned it carefully: had dinner around 7, then headed to the party between 8 and 9. We stayed until about 11 or midnight. Just as we were leaving, there was a noticeable surge in the crowd—it was already packed, but it was starting to get even more intense. I think we got the timing just right. That said, Megan was definitely hoping to stay a bit longer!

Get T shirts and face paints

This was one of the most fun and memorable moments of the evening, especially for the kids who fully embraced the experience. We went to the streets just behind the beach, soaked up the pre party vibe and bought Full Moon Party T-shirts for us all. There were also loads of vibrant stalls offering fluorescent face paint—perfect for getting into the spirit of things and fun for the kids. Conveniently, those same stalls also sold the iconic buckets!

Accept that it will be loud

The place we stayed at was great, but it wasn’t completely quiet when we got back to the hotel. As you’re close to the party, you can still hear it. It’s lively—it’s a party atmosphere. While there was no drama or trouble, light sleepers might find it a bit hard to get a good night’s rest.

If you’re on the fence about doing this and wondering whether it’s a good idea, I can confidently say it absolutely is—especially if you plan it right. Our kids had an amazing time, and so did every other child we saw. They felt completely safe, totally happy, and came away with only the best memories of one of the world’s most iconic celebrations. Parenting win? I like to think so. I’m definitely counting on this to earn me some cool mum points down the line!

Essaouira

Discover Essaouira, Morocco’s relaxed coastal gem. From safe surfing and street food to historic medinas and artisan vibes—this travel guide covers it all.

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Why Visit Essaouira?

Set on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, Essaouira is a laid-back haven that blends sea breeze, history, and creative energy. With its wide beaches, welcoming medina, and vibrant food scene, it’s a destination that appeals to surfers, artists, and explorers alike.


Top Things to Do in Essaouira

1. Wander the Medina

Essaouira’s whitewashed medina, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is refreshingly calm. No heavy crowds or high-pressure sellers—just winding alleys, artisan shops, spice stalls, and rooftop cafés perfect for mint tea breaks.

2. Surf’s Up (And Safe!)

Essaouira’s beach is ideal for beginner and family-friendly surfing. We hired boards and hit the waves daily—the surf was gentle and the shallow waters made it safe for kids and first-timers alike. Several surf schools offer gear and lessons right on the beach.

3. Walk the Historic Ramparts

The Skala de la Ville offers dramatic ocean views and iconic Game of Thrones backdrops. Stroll the old cannons, breathe the salty air, and watch waves crash into the rocks below.

4. Feast on Street Food & Veggie Options

While Essaouira is known for seafood, there’s also plenty for vegetarians and street food lovers:

  • Msemen: flaky stuffed flatbreads with herbs and onion
  • Vegetable tagine: slow-cooked spiced vegetables in earthen pots
  • Moroccan shawarma: packed with grilled veggies and fresh sauces
  • Sfenj: fluffy doughnuts dusted in sugar, perfect for a snack on the go

Cafés and food stalls throughout the medina serve hearty lentil soups, warm bread with olive oil, and fresh juices—all delicious and affordable.

5. Feel the Creativity

Essaouira hums with creativity. Browse small galleries, listen to Gnawa music drifting through the streets, and visit studios where artists handcraft jewelry, paintings, and textiles. The vibe is artistic, soulful, and never pretentious.


Where to Stay

Whether you choose a boutique riad in the medina or a beachfront guesthouse, Essaouira’s accommodations offer great value and charm. Rooftop terraces, ocean views, and cozy Moroccan décor make for a memorable stay. We stayed in a great Airbnb (sadly no longer available) right in the heart of the Medina. It had a great roof terrace with views over the medina to the sea. There were plenty of other options available that ticked these boxes though. I’d suggest browsing Booking.com or Airbnb.


Travel Tips for Essaouira

  • Bring layers – the Atlantic breeze can be brisk, even in summer
  • Carry cash – many local spots don’t accept cards
  • Book surf lessons in advance during peak seasons. Out of peak seasons you can just rock up. As our kids had surfed before we just hired boards.
  • Slow down – Essaouira is all about relaxing into the rhythm

Final Thoughts

If you’re after a Morocco trip that balances adventure with ease, history with sea air, and flavour with authenticity, Essaouira is calling.