Albania has been on my list for a while, and it still feels like a bit of a fresh face in the holiday conversation—which is part of the appeal. It’s had a bit of a bad rap in the past (think Hollywood villains and shady stereotypes) and is has undoubtedly had a difficult past, but the reality these days couldn’t be more different. With stunning scenery, dramatic mountains, beaches and charming old towns, it feels like discovering a secret before everyone else. It’s budget-friendly, full of character, and has really started to make its mark. We’ve just returned from a two week trip, so read on if you think Albania could be for you.
Day 1-3 – Tirana and around
After landing and taking care of the usual travel practicalities, we settled into Tirana for three days. It made a great base while we waited for family to fly in, and honestly, it turned out to be the perfect way to get a feel for both the city and the surrounding area.
Day 1: Our first day was all about exploring. We wandered around Tirana with no real agenda, just soaking it all in—colourful buildings, lively cafés, street art everywhere. It’s one of those cities where you can feel the history mixing with modern life, and landmarks like Skanderbeg Square and The House of Leaves give it some anchor points.
Day 2: we drove up to Krujë, a charming old hilltop town about 45 minutes away. The road up is scenic, winding through the mountains, and once you’re there, it’s like stepping back in time. Cobblestone alleys, local crafts, and sweeping views—it’s a totally different pace from Tirana.
After that, we decided to shake things up and drove out to Durrës on the coast. It’s got a relaxed beach-town vibe and made for a great late lunch spot—seafood by the sea always hits the spot. There’s also a Roman amphitheatre right in the middle of town. Just a heads-up: it’s closed Mondays, but you can still see most of it from the outside, so no major loss.
Day 3: We wanted to see some views (love a view), so we aimed for Gamti Mountain to see the Bovilla reservoir. You can’t drive up in a hire car, so we booked a guided tour through Get Your Guide—just over £50 for all five of us. The hike wasn’t too long, but it did involve scrambling over rocks and the safety setup is pretty bare-bones. Still, the kids managed it just fine, and the views from the top? Absolutely stunning—totally worth the climb.
Day 4: Day four took us to Berat—a scenic 1 hour 40 minute drive that totally changed the game. Up until then, I’d heard all the buzz about Albania’s beaches and the northern Alps, but nothing prepared me for the jaw-dropping landscapes we passed heading south. It was one of those drives where you keep saying, “Wait, look at that!” every five minutes.
Berat itself? Total gem. We spent the day meandering through the charming old town, then hiked up to the castle (which, bonus, is completely free). And this—this—is where my love affair with sufllaqe (souvlaki) began. I don’t eat meat, so I went for the veggie version, but there’s something about them… simple, satisfying, ridiculously good. Let’s just say one wasn’t enough—we went back again the same day. We ate here.
Funny thing is, we almost skipped Berat. But it turned out to be one of the absolute highlights of the trip. Can’t recommend it enough. We only stayed one night but I’m sure there would be loads to see in the surrounding area if you wanted to stay longer.
Days 5 – 9 – Sarandë and around
Day 5: We headed south again, this time to Sarandë—and the drive was stunning. Albania’s landscapes have this raw, untouched beauty that feels different from anywhere else I’ve been in Europe. We based ourselves in Sarandë for the following four nights (three full days)
Sarandë had that unmistakable holiday vibe—beach bars, lively restaurants, and a laid-back, seaside buzz. It’s easy to see why it’s one of the most talked-about spots in Albania. That said, I couldn’t help but wonder how the town handles the summer rush. The beaches aren’t huge, and while it was ideal for us—still early in the season, with fewer tourists around (we were the only Brits, and the only ones brave enough to dip in the sea!)—I imagine it could feel a bit overwhelming in the height of summer.
We stayed in an Airbnb perched above the coastline, with sweeping views across to Corfu. Mornings on the rooftop terrace, coffee in hand, watching the sun hit the Ionian Sea… not a bad way to start the day.
Day 6: We headed down south for a visit to Butrint National Park. It was definitely worth the trip — the park is a mix of natural beauty and ancient history. You can walk through incredibly well-preserved ruins from different periods, including Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian influences, all set within lush wetlands and surrounded by serene water views. The atmosphere is peaceful, and it’s easy to imagine what life might have been like centuries ago. A really good visit, especially if you’re into archaeology or just want a scenic and relaxing day out. We drove the 25 mins from Sarandë but there are also regular buses. The cost of entry is 1000 lek (10 euros) for adults and 500 lek (5 euros) for children over 12.
Day 7: We headed to Gjirokastër, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its well-preserved Ottoman architecture and dramatic hillside setting. The town’s cobbled streets wind through old stone houses with distinctive slate roofs, and the imposing Gjirokastër Castle has the most incredible views. While there, we explored the castle, wandered through the charming Old Bazaar and ate more sufllaqe!
We drove and parked on a street in the old town, which is good for visiting the bazaar and the castle but this proved tricky when trying to leave. I’d say don’t follow Google maps and just head downwards when you can. We almost got into quite a few scrapes, and we weren’t the only ones.
On our way back to Sarandë we visited the Blue Eye. It’s a natural spring with the clearest water I’ve ever seen…and freezing. You get there by turning off the main road (google maps will get you there, just put in The Blue Eye and make sure it’s the one in the south) and going all the way along to the end where there is a car park. It’s 3 euros (300 lek) for the car park and 0.5 euros (50 lek) per person entrance. It’s then a 20 ish minute walk along a paved road to The Blue Eye. There’s a restaurant overlooking the water and toilets available. From there it’s a short walk over a bridge to the Blue Eye. You can’t swim in it, it’s not allowed, although I did see a few people jumping in.
Day 8: We had a well needed chill day where we ate and swam and wandered. We found a jumping platform so the kids were amused for hours.
Day 9: We drove from Sarandë all the way up to Shkodër—basically one end of Albania to the other—which took us about 4 to 5 hours. When we arrived, it was pouring with rain, so Shkodër didn’t exactly get a chance to shine. But a few days later we passed through again under blue skies, and honestly, it was like a whole different place.
We stayed in a lovely little apartment that we’d absolutely recommend—perfect for a short stopover. That said, I’m not sure Shkodër has enough going on to fill more than a night or two, at least for us. We did check out Rozafa Castle, though, and that was totally worth it. The views from up there are just stunning.
Originally, the plan was to head into the mountains to Theth, but heavy snowfall had hit the area and we weren’t exactly snow-ready—especially when it came to driving. So, as travel goes sometimes, we had to pivot and figure out a new plan on the fly.
Day 10 – We decided to drive to Montenegro! As neither Albania nor Montenegro are in the EU, there is a hard border between the countries. After a few tricky experiences years ago, I am a bit jittery about border crossings, even now, but this honestly was plain sailing. More on border crossings here.
Day 11 – 12 – Tivat, Montenegro
We were staying in Tivat and the location of our rented apartment was pretty good. We were not totally lucky with the weather but we did get to see the area in the sun. We did boat rides, view points and visited nearby towns (and found a great place for suflaque!). A great add on if you find yourselves in the same situation as us. From the small part we saw, Montenegro is beautiful.
Day 13 – Drive to Tirana. We drove via Podgorica on the way back. We didn’t stay long so I really can’t comment fully but my impressions were that it is in a great setting, situated amongst beautiful scenery, but there didn’t seem to be an awful lot to keep us there. From there we crossed over into Albania and drove back to the airport, where we stayed for our last night.
Day 14 – We boarded our Ryanair flight home.
We loved our Balkan adventure and discovering a new place for us. We would massively recommend Albania for a beautiful, budget friendly and welcoming place to visit. have you ever been or thinking of going? I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Kitchen Family Travels 